GTiR For Sale fully customized

Will sell for $15 000 as is, or will provide it with a PPG Gear Box for $20000
just remanufactured race prep'd SR20DET
motor linished, balanced, blue printed to 0.4 of a thou, re-sleeved bored out 60 thou,
forged Venolia pistons squishid 15 thou,
ACL race bearings and rings,
new timing cover
new oil pump,
new water pump,
new starter motor,
new alternator,
After market BOV
aircon recon,
original nissan head gasket,
big ported & polished heads,
match ported mainifolds,
new stelight valves,
adjustable cam gears,
48mm Garrett Exturnal Waste Gate
high mount Stainless steel Exhaust manifold, Dump pipe, plumb back screemer pipe, and complete custom stainless 3" system with Hi Flow cat.
K&N POD filter and 4" silicon
T3 375R High Mount Ball Bearing Turbo 76000 rpm 600hp rating,
850cc injectors,
550hp Walbro Fuel Pump,
Autronic SM4 computer with dater logging full 3D air and fule maping, 2 stage boost switch 12 & 24 PSI & optional anti lag & launch control,
GTR front mount intercooler with polished stainless pipe work,
front mount oil cooler,
Extreme 5 puck ceramic cushion button clutch,
recon gear box,
slotted discs & EBC green stuff pads,
Tanabe coilovers
Isotta race bucket seats,
boss robotic headunit CD & MP3, swoosh Boost Gauge
all seals, hoses, hydrolics and electrics have been replaced recently

this car is daily driveable and has air con and can achive over 300kw ATW when you want to crank it up.

over $40000 and 600hrs spent


Please call Ariya on 0416037260 if your really interested or email absolute@sctelco.net.au

post edited.

would help to add some exterior and interior pics.

dyno sheet would be good too.

sounds like a monster.

kelvin

What diffs is the car running? What suspension? Sway Bars, bushes etc? Stock brakes with 300 kw atw???

It Sounds like quality parts have been used but with 40k spent I would expect bigger brakes, suspension to be WELL sorted, possible cage or seam welding.

Does it still run the std box?

Well I have now blown up and rebuilt 3 GTiR's and and lots more SR20DET's so I have done the reasurch. I found out where they brake and where they don't.

One I built 50 000 km's ago and ran 18psi from a stock turbo on pump fule to make just over 170kws at the wheals, then I put the big 600 hp T3 ball bearing job on it and gave it 40+ psi It was F... Quick. It blew the ring lan thats all.

So this time with the help from one of our contrays top Jap and race experts we rebuilt it with even better machining and parts.
I will now run it with an adjustable switch eather at 12 or 24 psi.

I am slowly running it in and will let you know what the Dyno resualts show when tuned for driveability.

It has Tanabi coil overs and the gear box- drive chain have been engineered to handle the power.

I had to put an anti lift kit in it to keep the frount wheals on the ground and a camber kit, I also have found tyres with thicker wall's or gutter protectors are a must to stop the tyers destorting on corners and I am pleased to say it makes the new WRX I thrashed through the hills look very unstable and slow in comparison it barkes about the same. I feel much safer in my GTiR

What engineering to the gearbox and drive train have been done?

I hav found out the best fly wheal was to have the stock one machined because of it's hardness and weight for momentum.

Then I found only a ceramic clutch would do the job for anything over 300hp so using a ceramic cushion button to take out a little of the slaming jaring forces running into the gear box.

I the had the casing re-enforced to better house the new berings this alone means every thing is running straight so there are less distructive forces.

Another really good way of reducing the forces is useing a super high quality thick gear oil that contains shock absorbers and friction absorbers, takes the brittleness and heat out of the equation (ULX) give it a go.

Then having the sharfts linished and the gears machined and every thing set up with the right gear by a pro makes a huge differance.

Then if the car has enough power then the driver dosent need to flog the s**t out of the gear box to get the speed needed because there is very little force on the box when the car is in gear and the car is moving

On the first Dyno run using just the standard spring in the external waste gate so making only 8psi at 5500rpm it achieved 160Kw at all 4 wheals on a conservative tune to run it in.

Once I have run it in I'll set the 2 stage boost switch to 24 Psi and the rev limiter to 8000rpm will also adjust the cam gears and swap the street Cat & back system and bolt up the 3" 45 out piece "for racing only".

With this set up it should easily be able to make over 300kw at the wheals. The guy that helped me build this one recently set up a blue bird with 430 Kw at the rear tread using a similar combo.

My self I just like driving it on the lower setting it is reliable economical and more powerful than you can use on the street any way.

I would love to put a cage in it, upgrade the brakes, suspension and hit the race track but now with 3 kids and farm I can't see it happening. However I am willing to help any one that would like to buy it and take it to the next stage.

that guy didn't happen to be a guy named alex, did it?

is this the car at boostin oz all the time?

what is the reason for keeping the standard head gasket??? wouldnt it make sense to upgrade after spending allthis money??? anyone??

I have tried other head gaskets and had one fail the genuine Nissan head gasket held 40psi no problem and I know I can trust it because Nissan have to put a warranty on their cars and back them up, aftermarket companies don't. The only reason to change to another brand is to get a thinner (possibly weaker) one so as to up your compression. I upped my comp by decking the head, block and custom pistons.

Why would you up the comp when you are going to up the boost?

Less lag and better torque down low

Good luck with the sale car looks like it has some good mods . I think you will have a much better chance of selling the car tuned at 24psi not 8psi.

cheers

Mark

Thanks mate the beauty of the Autronic computer is it can run around town reliably and economically at 8 psi and with a flick of a switch it will unleash what ever power you set it too. it just depends how long you want it last as it is it is with its power to weight ratio and all wheal grip it is extremely quick and very drivable, it really needs a big brake and suspension up grade if someone wants to punt it around a track though and I geese I'll get around to it if no one snaps it up. It's just so much fun to drive epically upsetting all the v8 and wrx tosses

i make 230kw @ 20psi daily on stock box with no problems.
i have never been a big fan of flickin switches to control power,How far you put the foot down works every day of the week for me.

Did you totaly rebuild the head with a bunch of custom stuff or something?I know many many people who regret reving there sr past 7500 rpm as sr20det does not like it at all over those revs.They are just not ment to take it with the head config the way they are.there are a few exceptions like the fastest s15 in aust that has a complete custom head config so it will rev over 7500 all day long but even they will tell you unless its set up for it leave your limiter below 7500rpm.
just wondering what you did to stop your motor from comming apart.

Yes basically I have a computer controlled boost switch so that the computer dictates the boost more reliably. The Head has had extensive work done on it the intake ports now come straight down at 45 with nearly twice the diameter instead of along then down at 45 the intake ports have been roughened up so as to maintain turbulence. The valves stems have been replaced with new stelite seats and valves, the exhaust side has been match ported and polished. The cams have been replaced and new billet adjustable cam gears installed. Every thing else was also professionally set up using the right gear it now flows at about 300 cfm. The GTiR heads are way superior to other SR20s not only are thy built to race with solid cams that can handle the higher revs they have much bigger head bolts 12 mm instead of 8mm they are also longer so there is no real need for aftermarket stud kits and the only cams I found that cloud improve on the stock ones are the Tomey PRO Cams suitable for drag racing only no good for idling in traffic. So all this in mind my can makes max power at 8000 rpm.

Id like to see the dyno graph of this monster. Lag city my bets. Id take ur gt-rs any day keiron